Incomplete Furrowed Ant
Myrmica incompleta
- Sci. Name
- Myrmica incompleta
- Tribe
- Myrmicini
- Subfamily
- Myrmicinae
- Author
- Provancher, 1881
- Common Name
- Incomplete Furrowed Ant
- Distribution
- Found in 2 countries
Introduction
Myrmica incompleta is a cold-climate ant native to northern North America. Workers are 3.5–5.0 mm long and dark brownish-black to black with lighter legs, mesosoma, and antennae . They have a coarsely sculpted head and mesosoma, and a distinctive clypeus that bulges outward with a concave margin . This species lives in deciduous forests, bogs, fens, and wet meadows, where it builds large polygynous (multi-queen) colonies that often spread across multiple connected nests (polydomous) . Workers are generally sluggish and rarely seen outside the nest . They feed on honeydew from aphids and coccids, and act as hosts for the social parasite Formicoxenus provancheri . Formerly known as Myrmica brevinodis, the species was revised and given its current name .
Quick Summary
- Difficulty: Medium
- Origin & Habitat: Cold climates across Canada and the northern United States, from the Maritime Provinces west to Alaska, with a southern extension down the Rocky Mountains to New Mexico. Found in moist, open or semi-open habitats including bog edges, fens, wet meadows, and deciduous forests [3][4].
- Colony Type: Polygynous (multi-queen) colonies with monomorphic workers. Colonies can become very large and sometimes appear unicolonial over wide areas. Polydomous – nests spread across multiple connected locations [3][8][4].
- Size & Growth:
- Queen: Size data unavailable – inferred from Myrmica genus (~5–7 mm)
- Worker: 3.5–5.0 mm [1]
- Colony: Very large colonies possible, polygynous colonies can develop large populations [3][4]
- Growth: Moderate (estimated based on typical Myrmica development)
- Development: 6–10 weeks at optimal temperature (estimated from related Myrmica species) (Exact timeline for this species is not confirmed in the literature.)
- Antkeeping:
- Temperature: Keep cool, around 18–22°C. Avoid temperatures above 25°C, which can be fatal. This cold-climate species does best at room temperature or slightly cooler [3][4].
- Humidity: Requires high humidity – keep the nest substrate consistently damp but not waterlogged. In nature they inhabit bogs and wet meadows, so moisture is critical [3][2].
- Diapause: Yes – requires winter hibernation. Provide a 3–4 month cold period at 5–10°C to simulate winter conditions [3].
- Nesting: Natural nests are built in moist soil, under stones, and in moss hummocks. In captivity, use test tubes with a water reservoir, plaster nests, or Y‑tong formicaria. Keep the nest material consistently moist [3][2].
- Behavior: Workers are generally sluggish and non-aggressive, but they can sting if handled [5]. They are cold-climate specialists that remain active at cooler temperatures. Escape risk is moderate – standard containment is sufficient for this size of ant (3.5–5 mm) [3].
- Common Issues: overheating – temperatures above 25°C can kill the colony, so keep the nest in a cool spot, low humidity – colonies may fail if the substrate dries out, check moisture levels regularly, hibernation failure – a proper cold period is essential, without it colonies weaken and die, large polygynous colonies can become difficult to manage – plan for expansion in advance, wild‑caught colonies may carry the social parasite Formicoxenus provancheri
Housing and Nest Setup
Myrmica incompleta does well in test tube setups or plaster nests that retain moisture. Since they naturally nest in moist soil and moss [3][2], keep the nest material consistently damp but not waterlogged. A test tube with a water reservoir works well – fill about one‑third with water, stuff cotton to create a chamber, and place your queen or colony inside. Cover the tube with a dark cloth for the first week to reduce stress. For larger colonies, a Y‑tong or plaster formicarium with a water chamber maintains humidity. Avoid acrylic nests, natural materials are better. Simple setups are fine as long as moisture levels are maintained.
Feeding and Diet
In the wild, Myrmica incompleta feeds heavily on honeydew from root‑feeding aphids and coccids, and also scavenges small insects [7][2]. In captivity, offer sugar water or honey as a constant energy source, and provide protein (small crickets, mealworms, or fruit flies) twice a week. They associate with over 20 aphid species, so they have a broad diet [7]. Drop food directly into the outworld or near the nest entrance. Remove uneaten protein within 24–48 hours to prevent mold.
Temperature and Seasonal Care
This is a cold‑climate species – keep temperatures between 18–22°C [3][4]. They can tolerate cooler conditions better than heat, avoid temperatures above 25°C. During winter, they require a true diapause (hibernation) of 3–4 months at 5–10°C. To hibernate, move the colony to an unheated garage or refrigerator (not freezer) from late fall through early spring. Gradually warm them back up in spring. Failure to provide proper hibernation often leads to colony decline.
Colony Structure and Growth
Myrmica incompleta forms polygynous colonies with multiple reproductive queens working together [3][8]. Colonies can become very large, sometimes appearing unicolonial over large areas. Workers are monomorphic (all similar in size), though this species shows more size variation than typical Myrmica [3]. Growth is moderate – expect 6–10 weeks from egg to first worker at optimal temperature. Once established, colonies grow steadily and can reach thousands of workers [3][4]. The presence of multiple queens makes colonies resilient to queen loss, but do not combine unrelated colonies as they may not integrate peacefully.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I keep Myrmica incompleta in a test tube?
Yes, test tubes work well for this species. Keep the water reservoir filled and maintain humidity by occasionally misting the cotton or using a tube with a large water chamber. Cover with an escape‑proof lid and keep in a cool area away from direct heat [3].
Do Myrmica incompleta ants need hibernation?
Yes, this cold‑climate species absolutely requires a winter diapause. Provide 3–4 months at 5–10°C in fall/winter. Without proper hibernation, colonies will weaken and eventually die. This is one of the most critical aspects of keeping this species [3][4].
How long does it take for first workers to appear?
Expect 6–10 weeks from egg to first worker at around 20°C. This is typical for Myrmica species, but the exact time for M. incompleta is not reported in the literature.
Are Myrmica incompleta good for beginners?
This species is moderate difficulty. The main challenges are maintaining proper humidity and providing correct hibernation conditions. If you can commit to a proper winter cooling schedule and keep the nest moist, they are rewarding colonies that grow quite large [3].
What do Myrmica incompleta eat?
They need a mix of sugar and protein. Offer sugar water or honey constantly, and provide protein (small insects like fruit flies, pinhead crickets, or mealworms) 2–3 times per week. They also readily accept honeydew, but sugar and insects are sufficient [7].
Will Myrmica incompleta sting?
Yes, they can sting and will do so if handled. The sting is not dangerous to healthy humans but can be painful. They are not aggressive and are usually sluggish, so stings are rare [3][5].
How big do Myrmica incompleta colonies get?
Colonies can become very large – thousands of workers in established populations. Their polygynous (multi‑queen) structure allows for rapid growth once founding is complete. Plan accordingly and be prepared to upgrade housing as the colony expands [3][4].
Can I keep multiple queens together?
Yes, this species is naturally polygynous (multi‑queen). However, combining unrelated foundress queens is not recommended as they may fight. If you capture a naturally polygynous colony, the queens should coexist. Never combine two separate wild‑caught colonies [8].
When should I move them to a formicarium?
Move to a larger setup once the colony reaches 50–100 workers or outgrows the test tube. A Y‑tong or plaster nest works well for larger colonies. Make sure any new setup can maintain humidity – these ants need moist conditions [3].
Why are my Myrmica incompleta dying?
Common causes include: temperatures too high (above 25°C), humidity too low (dry substrate), improper hibernation, or stress from disturbance. Check these parameters first. Also ensure you are not overfeeding, which causes mold problems. This species is sensitive to overheating [3].
Report an Issue
The current care sheet is based fully on literature. See inconsistencies, or something that's incorrect? Please , it will be resolved after review from an admin. Contributing to the blogs tab also helps providing information, to make us be able to further improve the caresheets. Thank you for your support!
References
This caresheet is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0 .
Community Blogs
ANTWEB1038042
View on AntWebCASENT0005703
View on AntWebCASENT0179858
View on AntWebCASENT0217892
View on AntWebCASENT0862446
View on AntWebCASENT0904079
View on AntWebCASENT0904080
View on AntWebCASENT0904081
View on AntWebCASENT0904082
View on AntWebCASENT0905772
View on AntWebCASENT0907634
View on AntWebCASENT0907635
View on AntWebCASENT0922755
View on AntWebLiterature
Loading distribution map...Loading products...