Scientific illustration of Carebara bokorensis ant - showing key identification features including head, thorax, and gaster.

Carebara bokorensis

单后制 Non-Parasitic Queen 否 可育工蚁 (Gamergate)
学名
Carebara bokorensis
Crematogastrini
亚科
Myrmicinae
命名者
Matsuura & Hosoishi, 2024
地理分布
分布于 0 个国家/地区

物种引言

Carebara bokorensis is a tiny ant species from the Carebara pygmaea species group, recently described in 2024 from Cambodia and Thailand. Major workers measure 3.7-4.3mm while minor workers are exceptionally small at 1.4-1.7mm, making them among the smaller ant species kept in captivity. They have distinctive 11-segmented antennae with a 2-segmented club, and major workers feature a rare trait among this group: a well-developed scutellum on their back. The species gets its name from Bokor National Park in Cambodia where it was first discovered. In Thailand, they inhabit lowland dry evergreen forests at 200-500m elevation, nesting within rotting wood .

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各国分布情况,数据源自 Kass et al. 2022 & Wong et al. 2023

本土物种 入侵物种 引入物种(温室内) 海关截获 未知
2000 - 2026

Quick Summary

  • Difficulty: Medium
  • Origin & Habitat: Native to Cambodia and Thailand. In Cambodia, found in Bokor National Park at 663m altitude. In Thailand, found in lowland dry evergreen forests at 200-500m elevation in Chanthaburi, Chachoengsao, and Ratchaburi provinces. Nests in rotting/decayed wood [1][2][3].
  • Colony Type: Single-queen colonies with ergatoid (wingless) replacement queens documented. Ergatoid queens are slightly larger than major workers and have three ocelli that major workers lack. If the primary queen dies, a wingless daughter can take over reproduction, this is different from having multiple egg-laying queens at once [2].
  • Size & Growth:
    • Queen: 3.76-4.03mm (ergatoid queen) [2]
    • Worker: Major: 3.7-4.26mm, Minor: 1.43-1.68mm [1][2]
    • Colony: Unknown, no colony size data available
    • Growth: Unknown
    • Development: Unknown, no development data available (No direct studies on development timeline exist for this species.)
  • Antkeeping:
    • Temperature: 24-28°C based on their tropical Asian distribution in lowland forests. Provide a gentle gradient so ants can choose their preferred temperature [2].
    • Humidity: High humidity required, they nest in rotting wood in humid forest environments. Keep nest substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged. Provide a water source like a test tube reservoir [1][2].
    • Diapause: Unknown, no data on overwintering requirements. Their tropical distribution suggests they may not need a true diapause, but cooler temperatures during winter months may slow activity.
    • Nesting: Natural nesting: rotting wood in forest habitats. Captive care: small test tube setups work well for founding colonies. For established colonies, Y-tong nests or plaster nests with small chambers scaled to their tiny size. The very small minor workers require fine mesh barriers for escape prevention [1][2].
  • Behavior: These ants are tiny and relatively docile. Major workers are slightly larger but still under 5mm total length. They likely forage for small prey and honeydew like other Carebara species. The ergatoid queen system means colonies can recover if the primary queen is lost. Their very small size means escape prevention must be excellent, they can squeeze through standard mesh. No documented sting [1][2].
  • Common Issues: escape prevention is critical, minor workers are under 2mm and can squeeze through standard mesh barriers, no development data means you are pioneering captive breeding, growth may be slow and unpredictable, humidity control is essential, rotting wood nesters need consistently moist conditions, ergatoid queens may be mistaken for workers by inexperienced keepers, they look very similar but have ocelli, newly described species means no established husbandry protocols exist, be prepared to experiment

Housing and Setup

Carebara bokorensis is a newly described species (2024), so there are no established captive protocols yet. For founding colonies, a standard test tube setup works well, the queen will seal herself into a chamber. Because minor workers are only 1.4-1.7mm, you must use fine mesh (at least 0.5mm or smaller) on any ventilation holes. Escape prevention is critical. For established colonies, Y-tong nests or plaster nests with small chambers work well. These ants naturally nest in rotting wood, so adding small pieces of decaying wood to a naturalistic setup may encourage natural behavior. Keep the nest area humid, these forest-floor ants need moisture. A water tube attached to the nest provides drinking water and helps maintain humidity. [1][2]

Feeding and Diet

Diet has not been directly studied for this species, but Carebara ants are typically omnivorous. In nature, they likely forage for small insects, honeydew from aphids, and other sweet secretions. For captivity, offer sugar water or honey water as a constant energy source. For protein, small soft-bodied prey like fruit flies, pinhead crickets, or tiny mealworms work well given their small size. Because minor workers are so tiny, prey items must be appropriately sized, anything larger than the workers themselves will go uneaten. Feed protein 2-3 times per week and keep sugar water available at all times. Remove uneaten prey within 24-48 hours to prevent mold. [3]

Temperature and Seasonal Care

Based on their distribution in tropical Southeast Asia (Cambodia and Thailand at 200-500m elevation), these ants prefer warm conditions. Aim for temperatures in the 24-28°C range. A heating cable on one side of the nest creates a temperature gradient so ants can regulate their own exposure. Room temperature may be sufficient if your home stays in the low-mid 20s°C. Their habitat in lowland dry evergreen forests suggests they can tolerate brief cooler periods but will be most active when warm. No data exists on diapause requirements, their tropical distribution suggests they may not need a true hibernation, but you may observe reduced activity during cooler months. [2]

Colony Structure and Ergatoid Queens

Carebara bokorensis has a documented ergatoid queen caste, this is a notable feature for antkeepers. Ergatoid queens are wingless females that look very similar to major workers but are slightly larger and have three ocelli (simple eyes) on the top of their head that major workers lack. Unlike regular queens that fly away to found new colonies, ergatoids typically remain in the nest and become replacement reproductives if the primary queen dies. This means your colony has a built-in backup system for survival. However, ergatoids do NOT mean the colony is polygynous (multiple egg-laying queens), they are replacement reproductives, not additional simultaneous egg-layers. Your colony will still function as single-queen with the ergatoid serving as an emergency replacement. [2]

Growth and Development

No scientific data exists on the development timeline from egg to worker for Carebara bokorensis. Based on measurements, major workers are 3.7-4.3mm while minor workers are only 1.4-1.7mm, this size difference suggests the species has distinct worker castes. The first workers (nanitics) will likely be smaller than fully-grown workers. Because this is a newly described species, you will be pioneering captive breeding, document your observations carefully. Growth may be slow, especially initially. Be patient and maintain stable conditions. [1][2]

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for Carebara bokorensis to produce first workers?

Unknown, no development data exists for this species. This is a newly described species so you will be pioneering captive breeding.

Can I keep multiple Carebara bokorensis queens together?

Not recommended. This species is single-queen with ergatoid replacement queens. Ergatoids are replacement reproductives that stay in the nest, not additional simultaneous egg-layers. Combining unrelated foundresses has not been studied and queens will likely fight.

What do Carebara bokorensis eat?

Based on typical Carebara diet: sugar sources (honey water, sugar water) and small protein prey (fruit flies, tiny mealworms, pinhead crickets). Prey must be small enough for their 1.4-1.7mm minor workers to handle. Remove uneaten prey within 48 hours.

Do Carebara bokorensis ants sting?

No documented sting. These ants are very small (under 5mm) and likely too tiny to penetrate human skin. They are docile and not aggressive.

Are Carebara bokorensis good for beginners?

Not ideal for beginners. This is a newly described species (2024) with no established captive protocols. You will be experimenting with care conditions. Additionally, their tiny size requires excellent escape prevention. However, if you are experienced with other small Myrmicinae and want to pioneer keeping a newly described species, this can be rewarding.

What temperature do Carebara bokorensis need?

Based on their tropical Asian distribution, aim for 24-28°C. A temperature gradient allows ants to choose their preferred spot. Room temperature in most homes may be suitable if kept in the low-mid 20s°C.

Do Carebara bokorensis need hibernation?

Unknown, no data on overwintering requirements. Their tropical distribution in Cambodia and Thailand suggests they may not need a true diapause. You may observe reduced activity during cooler months, but a full hibernation may not be necessary.

How big do Carebara bokorensis colonies get?

Unknown, no colony size data available. Given their tiny minor workers (1.4-1.7mm), colonies will likely remain relatively small. This is typical for very small ant species.

What nest type is best for Carebara bokorensis?

For founding colonies, a test tube setup works well. For established colonies, Y-tong nests or plaster nests with small chambers scaled to their tiny size. They naturally nest in rotting wood, so a naturalistic setup with decaying wood may encourage natural behavior. Fine mesh is essential for escape prevention.

Why are my Carebara bokorensis dying?

Common issues include: escape through tiny gaps (use fine mesh), low humidity (they need moist rotting wood conditions), improper feeding (prey too large, or sugar water missing), and temperature stress (too cold slows activity, too hot dries out nest). Document your conditions and adjust gradually.

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References

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