Paratrachymyrmex phaleratus

Quick Summary

• Difficulty: Medium
• Origin & Habitat: Northern South America, documented in Guyana (type locality at Kartabo), Venezuela, and Colombia (Antioquia at 1010m altitude) ^[1][2][3]. Found in tropical forest environments at moderate elevations.
• Colony Type: Unconfirmed, colony structure has not been directly studied for this species.
• Size & Growth:
  • Queen: Inferred from Paratrachymyrmex genus, approximately 6-8 mm ^[4].
  • Worker: Inferred from Paratrachymyrmex genus, approximately 3-4 mm ^[4].
  • Colony: Up to several hundred workers estimated based on typical Attini colonies ^[4].
  • Growth: Moderate, fungus farming requires steady growth ^[4].
  • Development: Estimated 6-10 weeks at optimal temperature based on related Attini species ^[4]. (Development times are temperature dependent, cooler temperatures slow development significantly.)
• Antkeeping:
  • Temperature: Keep at 24-28°C. The Colombian population at 1010m suggests they can tolerate slightly cooler conditions ^[1]. A gentle gradient allows workers to regulate temperature ^[1].
  • Humidity: High humidity is essential, keep nest substrate consistently damp but not waterlogged ^[4]. Fungus gardens dry out easily.
  • Diapause: No, being from northern South America with minimal seasonal variation, they remain active year-round ^[4].
  • Nesting: In captivity, they do well in nests that hold moisture well, plaster nests, ytong nests, or naturalistic setups with damp soil ^[4].
• Behavior: These are peaceful, non-aggressive ants. Primary defense is stinging, as typical for Myrmicinae ants. Workers are small and not particularly defensive. Escape risk is moderate due to small size, standard barrier methods work ^[4].
• Common Issues: fungus garden collapse is the primary killer, if the fungus dies, the colony starves. this happens fast if humidity drops or mold invades., mold is a serious threat, contaminated substrate or poor ventilation can allow mold to overtake the fungal garden., overfeeding protein can harm the fungus, these ants feed the fungus, not themselves directly. too much insect material can foul the garden., small colony fragility, founding colonies are extremely vulnerable and can fail easily if conditions aren't stable., limited acceptance of artificial foods, they are specialists and may reject standard ant foods if the fungus isn't established.

Fungus Farming Basics

Paratrachymyrmex phaleratus belongs to the tribe Attini, fungus-growing ants that cultivate specialized fungi for food ^[5]. Unlike leaf-cutter ants that cut fresh leaves, this species collects plant debris, dead insects, and other organic material to feed their fungal gardens ^[5]. In captivity, you must maintain a living fungal garden. Start with a small piece of healthy fungus from an established colony if possible. The fungus appears as a white, cottony mass that the ants tend meticulously. Workers prune and maintain the fungus, adding new substrate and removing contaminants. The ants consume special structures called gongylidia that the fungus produces specifically for them. The fungus requires specific conditions: consistent moisture (not wet), moderate warmth (24-28°C), and protection from mold ^[1]. Use clean, organic substrate like chopped dried leaves, grass, or filter paper as fungus food. Avoid fresh leaves as these can introduce contaminants. Change substrate gradually, sudden changes can shock the fungus.

Feeding and Nutrition

These ants do not eat conventional ant food. Their diet comes entirely from the fungal garden, they feed the fungus organic material, and the fungus produces gongylidia that the ants consume ^[5]. This means your feeding target is the fungus, not the ants directly. Provide a variety of organic materials for the fungus: finely chopped dried leaves, small pieces of cardboard, crushed insect exoskeletons, small amounts of grain, or dried flower petals. Offer small amounts at a time and remove uneaten material before it molds. The amount depends on fungus size, a healthy garden will consume its offerings within a few days. Protein from dead insects can be offered but should be limited, too much protein can harm the fungal garden. If you see the fungus turning dark or slimy, reduce protein and improve substrate hygiene.

Temperature and Humidity Control

Maintain temperatures between 24-28°C for optimal fungus health and colony development. The Colombian population was found at 1010m elevation, suggesting they can tolerate slightly cooler conditions than pure lowland species, you might see slight activity reduction below 22°C ^[1]. Use a heating cable on one side of the nest to create a temperature gradient so workers can choose their preferred zone. Humidity is critical. The fungal garden requires consistent moisture, aim for substrate that feels damp but isn't waterlogged. Check daily and rehydrate as needed using room-temperature water. A water reservoir in the nest helps maintain humidity. Avoid placing the nest near air conditioning or heating vents that cause rapid drying. Ventilation must balance preventing mold with maintaining humidity. Small ventilation holes or mesh tops work well.

Colony Founding and Early Development

A newly mated queen will dig a small chamber and seal herself inside, this is claustral founding, typical of Attini ants ^[4]. She tends a small fungal garden using her stored fat reserves and wing muscles until the first workers emerge. The founding chamber must stay humid and undisturbed. During this phase, the queen produces a small fungal pellet from fragments of the mating swarm's fungus. She tends it carefully, adding her own waste products which contain nutrients the fungus needs. This phase is extremely vulnerable, the queen cannot leave to adjust conditions, and any disturbance can cause her to abandon or eat the fungus. First workers are smaller than normal workers but immediately begin tending the fungus and expanding the nest. Do not disturb the colony during founding. After 6-10 weeks, the first workers emerge and begin foraging for substrate.

Housing and Nest Setup

Any nest type that maintains humidity works well for Paratrachymyrmex. Plaster nests, ytong nests with moisture reservoirs, or naturalistic setups with damp soil are all suitable. The key requirement is the ability to maintain consistently damp substrate without flooding. For founding colonies, a small test tube setup with a cotton ball providing moisture works well. Keep the tube in a dark, humid container. Once workers emerge and the colony reaches 20-30 workers, consider moving to a proper nest. The outworld (foraging area) should be small relative to the nest, these are not large colonies. Escape prevention is straightforward, they are small but not particularly good climbers. Standard barrier methods work. However, ensure the outworld has small, accessible food offerings since workers are tiny. ^[4]

Frequently Asked Questions

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References