Myrmicocrypta microphthalma

Quick Summary

• Difficulty: Medium
• Origin & Habitat: Tropical forests of Peru and Brazil (Bahia) ^[3][1].
• Colony Type: Likely single‑queen (monogyne) – based on the type series that includes a single gyne with about 50 workers ^[2]. This pattern is typical of many Attini, though not confirmed for all colonies.
• Size & Growth:
  • Queen: Estimated ~4–5 mm – no direct measurements published, this is inferred from related Myrmicocrypta species.
  • Worker: Estimated 2–3 mm – inferred from genus patterns.
  • Colony: The type series includes about 50 workers, suggesting colonies are modest ^[2]. Mature colonies may reach a few hundred workers, based on other small Attini.
  • Growth: Moderate – fungus‑growing ants need time to establish their fungal garden before rapid growth.
  • Development: Estimated 6–10 weeks at tropical temperatures (24–28°C) – this is a rough guess from related Attini, no species‑specific data exist. (Development depends heavily on the health of the fungus garden. The colony must establish the fungal culture before many workers can be produced.)
• Antkeeping:
  • Temperature: Keep at 24–28°C (tropical room temperature). Use a heating cable on one side of the nest to create a gentle gradient if your room is cooler. As a tropical species ^[1], these ants need consistent warmth.
  • Humidity: High humidity is essential – aim for 70–80%. Keep the nest substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged. Damp conditions are needed to maintain the fungal garden. Use a water reservoir in your test tube or formicarium.
  • Diapause: No – this tropical species does not hibernate. Maintain warm temperatures year‑round.
  • Nesting: Use a test‑tube setup initially, then transition to a small Ytong, plaster, or naturalistic nest with moist substrate. They nest in soil or rotting wood in the wild ^[1], so provide a dark, humid environment. A small chamber works well for their modest size.
• Behavior: These ants are generally peaceful and slow‑moving, focusing on their fungus garden. They forage for small pieces of organic matter (dead leaves, plant debris, insect parts) to feed the fungus. Workers have a functional stinger (typical of Myrmicinae), but it is mild and poses no real danger to keepers. Escape risk is moderate – though they are not strong climbers, their small size (2–3 mm) means they can slip through tiny gaps. Seal all connections carefully.
• Common Issues: fungus garden failure – the most critical risk, if the fungal culture dies, the colony will not survive. Requires stable humidity, proper feeding, and no sudden temperature swings., overheating or drying out – never let the nest dry out completely, check moisture levels daily., slow colony growth – patience is needed, don’t overfeed, as uneaten food can mold and harm the fungus., wild‑caught colonies may carry parasites or diseases that are hard to treat in captivity., temperature drops below 20°C can stress or kill the colony – keep them consistently warm., poorly ventilated food – uneaten organic matter can rot and contaminate the fungus garden.

Fungus Growing Basics

Myrmicocrypta microphthalma belongs to the tribe Attini – the fungus‑growing ants ^[1]. Like other Attini, the queen carries a small piece of her parent colony’s fungus when she flies off to start a new nest. She feeds the fungus tiny bits of organic matter, and the fungus itself becomes the food source for the larvae. In captivity, you need to maintain a healthy fungal culture. The ants will do most of the work if you provide proper humidity and small amounts of appropriate organic material. Avoid direct sunlight on the nest and never let the substrate dry out. These basic principles apply to all fungus‑growing ants ^[1].

Feeding Your Colony

As a fungus‑growing ant ^[1], the colony needs a steady supply of organic matter to feed its garden. Offer small pieces of leaf litter, decaying wood fragments, or tiny vegetable pieces. Some colonies also accept very small insects, but plant material is more important. Remove any uneaten food after 2–3 days to prevent mold that could kill the fungus. Sugar water is generally not needed. A diverse mix of plant material from deciduous trees works best. This feeding advice is based on general Attini care, no species‑specific studies are available.

Housing and Nest Setup

Start with a standard test‑tube setup with a water reservoir. Keep the tube dark (wrap with paper or cover it) – these ants prefer dark, humid environments. Once the colony reaches about 30–50 workers, you can move it to a small formicarium. Use moist substrate like sand, soil, or a mix designed for tropical ants. The nest must hold moisture well – check daily and rehydrate when the surface starts to dry. A small Ytong or plaster nest also works. Provide an outworld for foraging but keep the nest portion humid and dark. Based on their tropical forest habitat ^[1], these conditions mimic their natural nest sites.

Temperature and Humidity Management

As a tropical species ^[1], Myrmicocrypta microphthalma needs consistent warmth between 24–28°C year‑round. A heating cable placed on top of the nest (never underneath, to avoid drying the substrate) helps maintain this. Humidity should stay around 70–80% – the substrate should feel consistently damp but never have standing water. Mist occasionally if humidity drops, but rely on a water reservoir for stable moisture. Poor humidity is the most common cause of colony failure. Watch the fungus garden – if it turns dark or stops growing, conditions may be off.

Frequently Asked Questions

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References