Mycetomoellerius jamaicensis

Quick Summary

• Difficulty: Medium
• Origin & Habitat: Native to the Caribbean islands and southeastern Florida. In the US, found only in south Florida and the Florida Keys, inhabiting coastal tropical hardwood hammocks on shallow, sandy, coralline-rock-derived soils ^[5][6]. Also found in dry forests and scrub habitats throughout the Caribbean ^[7][8].
• Colony Type: Single-queen colonies (monogyne). Colonies contain 150 to several hundred workers ^[5]. Nests have multiple chambers, typically 1-3 but up to 8 have been found, extending 2.7-70cm deep ^[9][4].
• Size & Growth:
  • Queen: Size data unavailable, queen measurements in literature are given as head width (1.6-1.7mm) rather than total body length ^[5].
  • Worker: 4.5-5.7mm total length ^[9].
  • Colony: Up to several hundred workers ^[5][7].
  • Growth: Moderate, based on typical Attini development patterns.
  • Development: Estimated 6-10 weeks at optimal temperature. (Development time is estimated based on typical Trachymyrmex patterns. Higher-attine ants generally take longer than basic Attini species.)
• Antkeeping:
  • Temperature: Keep at 24-28°C. As a tropical Caribbean species, they need warm conditions. Avoid temperatures below 20°C. A heating cable on one side of the nest creates a suitable gradient.
  • Humidity: Moderate to high humidity. In nature, they inhabit coastal areas and dry forests. Keep nest substrate lightly moist but not waterlogged. Provide a water tube for drinking water.
  • Diapause: No, this is a tropical species that does not require hibernation. Maintain warm temperatures year-round ^[7].
  • Nesting: Multi-chamber ground nests. In captivity, a naturalistic setup with soil or a Y-tong/plaster nest with multiple connected chambers works well. They need depth for their fungus gardens. Provide moist substrate that holds together for chamber construction ^[9][4].
• Behavior: Workers are diurnal but prefer foraging in late afternoon and early morning, avoiding midday heat ^[7][9]. When disturbed, they feign death by falling over and remaining motionless ^[9]. They are not aggressive and rarely sting. Workers vary in size, larger workers handle foraging and nest maintenance while smaller, paler workers tend the fungus garden inside ^[9]. Foraging distance is up to 4 meters from the nest entrance ^[4]. Escape risk is moderate, use standard barrier methods but they are not particularly prone to escaping.
• Common Issues: Fungus garden failure, the symbiotic fungus can die if conditions are too dry, too wet, or if contaminated with mold. Keep substrate stable and avoid disturbing the garden., Temperature drops below 20°C can stress or kill colonies since this is a tropical species., Overfeeding with fresh plant material can cause mold problems in the nest. Remove uneaten plant matter regularly., Colony decline in captivity, wild colonies may have difficulty adjusting to captive conditions. Captive-bred colonies adapt better., Dry substrate causes fungus death, these ants need consistently moist (not wet) substrate to maintain their fungal gardens., This species is considered potentially endangered in Florida due to coastal urbanization ^[5].

Housing and Nest Setup

Mycetomoellerius jamaicensis needs a nest with multiple chambers since they naturally build multi-chamber ground nests. A naturalistic setup with a soil chamber system or a Y-tong/plaster nest with connected chambers works best. The nest should have at least 2-3 chambers of varying sizes connected by tunnels. Provide moist substrate (like sand/soil mix) that holds its shape when workers dig chambers. The substrate should feel damp but not be waterlogged, squeeze a handful and it should hold together loosely without dripping. Include a water tube attached to the outworld so workers can drink. Use an outworld (foraging area) where you can offer plant material for their fungus garden. Escape prevention is standard, these ants are not particularly small or agile escape artists. ^[9][4][6]

Feeding and Fungus Garden Care

This is the most critical aspect of keeping M. jamaicensis. Like all fungus-growing ants, they cannot survive without their symbiotic fungus. Feed them small pieces of fresh plant material: fruits (especially soft fruits), flowers, buds, and green leaves. In the wild, they collect fruits from plants like Crossopetallum rhacoma, Erithalis fruticosa, and Coccoloba microstachya ^[3]. They also use caterpillar excrement and dead leaves ^[9]. Offer a variety of plant matter and remove uneaten portions every few days to prevent mold. Do not feed them protein-rich insects like other ants, their fungus is their primary food source. The workers feed on the fungal mycelium, not the plant material directly. Fresh plant material should be cut into small pieces (2-5mm) for easier handling. The fungus will grow as white mycelium over the substrate.

Temperature and Humidity

As a tropical Caribbean species, M. jamaicensis needs warm temperatures year-round. Keep the nest at 24-28°C. Temperatures below 20°C can be harmful. Use a heating cable on one side of the nest to create a temperature gradient if your room temperature is below 24°C. Place the heating cable on top of the nest, not underneath, to avoid evaporating moisture too quickly. Humidity should be moderate, the substrate should remain damp but not soggy. These ants inhabit coastal areas and can tolerate some variation, but the fungus garden is sensitive to drying out. Mist the outworld occasionally but avoid directly misting the nest chambers. A water tube provides drinking water and helps maintain humidity through evaporation. ^[7][5]

Behavior and Colony Dynamics

Workers are diurnal and prefer foraging during late afternoon and early morning hours, avoiding the hottest midday sun ^[7][9]. When disturbed, they exhibit thanatosis, falling over and feigning death ^[9]. This is a passive defense mechanism rather than aggression. Colony size reaches several hundred workers at maturity. There is size polymorphism among workers, larger workers handle foraging, sand removal, and nest maintenance, while smaller, paler workers stay inside tending the fungus garden ^[9]. Workers communicate using chemical trails to guide nestmates to food sources. The colony will expand the fungus garden progressively as more workers emerge. Do not disturb the fungus garden unnecessarily, it is essential for colony survival.

Growth and Development

Colony growth is moderate. The queen lays eggs that develop into larvae, then pupae, and finally workers. Based on typical Trachymyrmex development patterns, expect 6-10 weeks from egg to first worker at optimal temperature. The first workers (nanitics) are typically smaller than mature workers. Growth rate depends on temperature and food quality, warmer temperatures within the acceptable range speed development. The fungus garden must be established and healthy for the colony to grow. A well-fed colony with a healthy fungus can produce new workers every few weeks once established. Colonies can live for many years, queen lifespan in Attini ants can exceed 10-15 years in captivity. ^[5]

Report an Issue

The current care sheet is based fully on literature. See inconsistencies, or something that's incorrect? Please report here, it will be resolved after review from an admin. Contributing to the blogs tab also helps providing information, to make us be able to further improve the caresheets. Thank you for your support!

References