Discothyrea kamiteta
- Sci. Name
- Discothyrea kamiteta
- Tribe
- Proceratiini
- Subfamily
- Proceratiinae
- Author
- Kubota & Terayama, 1999
- Distribution
- Found in 1 countries
Introduction
Discothyrea kamiteta is a tiny proceratiine ant native to the Ryukyu Islands of Japan and southern China. Workers measure approximately 2.3mm in total length and have a distinctive reddish-brown coloration with large, prominently protruding eyes . Their most specialized trait is their diet - they are predators of spider eggs (oothecae), boring through egg cases to harvest the eggs inside . They nest in leaf litter and soil, with colonies found in suspended soil of epiphytic ferns and forest floor soil at shallow depths . This is one of the most specialized predators in the ant-keeping hobby.
Quick Summary
- Difficulty: Hard
- Origin & Habitat: Ryukyu Islands (Japan) and southern China (Yunnan, Hunan, Taiwan), found in primary forest, limestone forest, secondary forest, and broad-leaved forest at elevations of 625-815m. Not found in rubber plantations [3][4].
- Colony Type: Unconfirmed, no specific data on queen number. Based on typical Discothyrea patterns, likely single-queen.
- Size & Growth:
- Queen: ~2.3mm, inferred from worker size
- Worker: ~2.3mm total length [1]
- Colony: Up to approximately 100 workers based on documented colony of 73 workers [2]
- Growth: Slow, workers emerged after feeding on oothecae for a few months [2]
- Development: Estimated 2-4 months at warm temperatures based on documented slow development [2] (Development is slow due to their specialized egg-based diet. First workers emerge months after queen begins raising brood on spider eggs.)
- Antkeeping:
- Temperature: Keep at 22-26°C. This subtropical species from Japan and China prefers warm conditions. A gentle gradient is beneficial.
- Humidity: High humidity required, they inhabit forest leaf litter and soil. Keep substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged.
- Diapause: Likely requires winter cooling period given their subtropical distribution in Japan and China. Reduce temperature to 15-18°C for 2-3 months during winter months.
- Nesting: Small test tube setup works well for founding colonies. For established colonies, provide small chambers in soil-based setups. They prefer tight spaces scaled to their tiny size. Natural nesting sites include suspended soil in epiphytic ferns and shallow soil in forest floors [2].
- Behavior: Very docile and non-aggressive. When disturbed, they perform death-feigning behavior (thanatosis), curling up with legs and antennae folded, lasting only a few seconds for workers and up to 60 seconds for queens [2]. They are specialized predators that ignore typical ant prey like mealworms but will aggressively hunt spider egg cases. Workers locate oothecae within ten minutes and bore holes to retrieve spider eggs [2]. Escape risk is moderate due to their small size, use standard barrier methods.
- Common Issues: specialized diet makes them difficult to feed, they require spider eggs and ignore standard prey, slow growth means colonies develop very slowly, requiring patience, death-feigning can make them appear dead when disturbed, small colony size limits their resilience to mistakes, humidity control is critical, they dry out easily in dry conditions, queen death has been observed during observation periods, colonies can be fragile [2]
Housing and Setup
Discothyrea kamiteta is a tiny ant that requires appropriately scaled housing. For founding colonies, a standard test tube setup works well, the small diameter matches their size and the cotton provides moisture retention. For established colonies, use small acrylic nests or formicariums with tight chambers. They prefer dark conditions and will thrive in setups that mimic their natural leaf-litter environment. A humidity chamber or water reservoir connected to the nest helps maintain moisture. Because they are small but not extremely so, standard escape prevention (fluon on rim edges) is usually sufficient.
Their natural nesting sites include suspended soil in epiphytic ferns and shallow soil in forest floors [2]. In captivity, provide a soil layer or substrate they can burrow into. A thin layer of moist soil under an observation area works well. They do not need large spaces, tiny chambers scaled to their 2mm body size are appropriate.
Feeding and Diet - Critical
This is the most challenging aspect of keeping Discothyrea kamiteta. They are predators of spider eggs and will NOT accept typical ant prey. In tests, workers showed no response toward freshly-cut mealworms, leaving them untouched even after a day [2]. You must provide spider oothecae (egg cases).
Spider egg cases can be collected from the wild (look in corners of outdoor structures, under eaves, in garden sheds) or purchased from reptile/arachnid suppliers who sell them as food for pet spiders. When you provide an ootheca, workers locate it within ten minutes and begin boring a hole to access the eggs inside [2]. They retrieve individual eggs using their mandibles and carry them into the nest cavity. Multiple spider eggs were observed inside nest cavities the next day in documented colonies [2].
Feed oothecae periodically, the timing depends on colony size and consumption rate. Remove uneaten oothecae if they become moldy. Queens and workers both consume spider eggs [2]. Sugar water acceptance is unknown but unlikely given their specialized predatory nature.
Temperature and Seasonal Care
As a subtropical species from the Ryukyu Islands and southern China, Discothyrea kamiteta prefers warm conditions. Maintain temperatures between 22-26°C for optimal activity and brood development. A heating cable on one side of the nest creates a temperature gradient, allowing ants to self-regulate. Avoid temperatures below 18°C for extended periods.
Given their distribution in Japan and China, they likely require a winter cooling period. During winter months (roughly November-February in the Northern Hemisphere), reduce temperatures to 15-18°C to simulate their natural seasonal cycle. This diapause period helps maintain colony health. Do not cool them dramatically, a gentle reduction is sufficient. Activity will slow during this period, and feeding can be reduced or suspended. [3][4]
Behavior and Defense
Discothyrea kamiteta is extremely docile and poses no threat to keepers. Their primary defense mechanism is death-feigning (thanatosis). When touched with forceps or otherwise disturbed, workers perform this behavior, they curl up with legs and antennae folded against the body, resembling a pupal posture [2]. This lasts only a few seconds for workers. Queens also perform death-feigning, with first touches producing bouts lasting about 60 seconds, decreasing with subsequent touches [2].
They are not aggressive and do not sting. Their small size means they cannot penetrate human skin. Their specialized predatory behavior is fascinating to observe, workers systematically locate spider egg cases and methodically harvest the eggs inside. They ignore other prey items entirely, focusing exclusively on spider eggs [2].
Colony Development
Colonies start with a single mated queen and grow slowly. Documented wild colonies had 73 workers, suggesting maximum colony size is likely under 100 workers [2]. This is a small colony size compared to many common ant species. The slow growth is partly due to their specialized diet, workers emerged after feeding on oothecae for a few months [2].
Queens have 4-6 ovarioles (egg-producing tubes), and workers also have 4-6 ovarioles, meaning workers can potentially lay eggs in the absence of a queen [2]. However, the queen is the primary egg-layer. The small colony size means each colony is relatively fragile, and losses are harder to recover from. Patience is essential, do not expect rapid population growth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I keep Discothyrea kamiteta in a test tube?
Yes, test tubes work well for founding colonies. Use a small-diameter test tube to match their tiny size. Keep the water reservoir filled and maintain high humidity around the setup. They do well in test tubes until the colony reaches around 30-40 workers, then consider moving to a small formicarium.
What do Discothyrea kamiteta eat?
They eat ONLY spider eggs (oothecae). This is critical, they are predators of spider eggs and will not accept typical ant food like mealworms, fruit flies, or sugar water. You must provide spider egg cases, which can be collected from outdoor structures or purchased from reptile suppliers. Workers locate oothecae within minutes and bore holes to harvest spider eggs inside.
How long until first workers in Discothyrea kamiteta?
Development is slow, workers emerged after feeding on spider eggs for a few months in documented colonies. Expect 2-4 months from egg to first worker at warm temperatures (24-26°C). Their specialized biology and slow metabolism contribute to this extended development timeline.
Are Discothyrea kamiteta good for beginners?
No, this is a difficult species best suited for experienced antkeepers. Their specialized diet (requiring spider eggs), slow growth, and humidity requirements make them challenging. Beginners should start with more adaptable species like Lasius or Tetramorium.
Do Discothyrea kamiteta ants sting?
No, they do not sting and are completely harmless to humans. Their tiny size means they cannot penetrate human skin. Their only defense is death-feigning, curling up and playing dead when disturbed.
How big do Discothyrea kamiteta colonies get?
Small, wild colonies have been documented with up to 73 workers. Maximum colony size is likely under 100 workers. This is a small, compact species that remains in low numbers compared to common ant species.
Do Discothyrea kamiteta need hibernation?
Yes, they likely require a winter cooling period given their subtropical distribution in Japan and China. Reduce temperatures to 15-18°C for 2-3 months during winter. This helps maintain natural seasonal rhythms and colony health.
Why are my Discothyrea kamiteta dying?
The most likely causes are: (1) wrong food, they MUST have spider eggs, standard ant food will be ignored, (2) low humidity, they dry out easily in dry conditions, (3) temperature issues, they need warmth (22-26°C) and will struggle in cool rooms. Check these three factors first.
When to move Discothyrea kamiteta to a formicarium?
Move them when the colony reaches 30-50 workers and the test tube is becoming cramped. They prefer small, tight chambers scaled to their tiny size. A small acrylic nest or soil-based formicarium works well. Avoid large, open spaces.
Can I keep multiple Discothyrea kamiteta queens together?
Not recommended unless you have specific experience. This species' colony structure is unconfirmed. Combining unrelated queens has not been documented and would likely result in fighting. Start with one queen per colony.
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